History of the Kimono: The National Dress of Japan
A kimono is a traditional Japanese garment characterized by a T-shaped, wrapped-front design with square sleeves and a rectangular body. It is worn left over right, except for deceased individuals. Below in this article WHE explores deeper into this unique and historical Japanese attire.
An example of a Kimono on display at the Victoria and Albert museum in London.
Origins and Historical Development
The kimono has a rich history dating back to the Heian period (794–1185). Its origins are rooted in earlier Chinese styles introduced to Japan via envoys and immigrants. Over time, Japan’s elite adopted and adapted these styles to create a uniquely Japanese aesthetic.
In the early Yamato and Nara periods (300–794), Japanese clothing closely followed Chinese influences, with robes featuring overlapping fronts and long sleeves. The Yoro clothing code, instituted in 718 CE, formalized the practice of wearing garments with a left-over-right closure—a convention still observed today. During the Heian period, Japan ceased sending envoys to China, leading to the development of distinct Japanese styles. The kosode, a precursor to the modern kimono, gained prominence, initially worn as an undergarment but gradually evolving into outerwear.
During the Kamakura (1185–1333) and Muromachi (1336–1573) periods, the kosode became more common among the samurai class and aristocrats, often worn with a narrow obi belt. By the Edo period (1603–1867), kimono fashion flourished, with merchants and townspeople influencing styles and patterns. The obi grew wider, and fabric decoration techniques, such as shibori and yuzen dyeing, became highly refined.
Design and Construction
Kimono are typically made from a long, narrow bolt of fabric called a tanmono. The construction of a kimono follows strict guidelines, ensuring that each garment is symmetrical and easy to adjust in size. The kimono’s rectangular body, square sleeves, and overlapping front closure create a distinctive silhouette.
Traditional kimono fabrics include silk, hemp, linen, and later, cotton and synthetic fibers. Patterns are often seasonal, with motifs such as cherry blossoms for spring and maple leaves for autumn. The garment is assembled using minimal cutting, allowing for ease of maintenance and the potential for fabric reuse.
A 1923 photo of a couple wearing kimono during their wedding ceremony.
Types of Kimono
Kimono vary depending on the occasion, formality, season, and marital status of the wearer. Women’s kimono are often more elaborate than men’s and come in several types:
- Furisode: Worn by young unmarried women, distinguished by long, flowing sleeves.
- Tomesode: A formal kimono for married women, often featuring family crests and subdued patterns.
- Komon: An informal kimono with small, repeating patterns suitable for casual outings.
- Houmongi: A semi-formal kimono with patterns that flow across the seams.
- Yukata: A lightweight cotton kimono, worn in summer and to festivals.
Men’s kimono are typically simpler, featuring subdued colors and minimal decoration. They are often paired with a haori (jacket) and hakama (pleated trousers) for formal occasions.
Kimono Accessories
Kimono are worn with specific accessories that enhance their appearance and maintain their structure:
- Obi: A wide sash that secures the kimono and varies in style and formality.
- Tabi: Split-toe socks traditionally worn with kimono.
- Zori and Geta: Traditional footwear made of straw, wood, or lacquered materials.
- Obijime and Obidome: Decorative cords and ornaments used to secure the obi.
- Kanzashi: Ornamental hairpins often worn by women in formal attire.
A pair of Tabi.
Wearing and Dressing Techniques
The art of wearing a kimono is known as kitsuke. Dressing in a kimono requires multiple steps to ensure a proper fit and elegant appearance. Layers such as the juban (under-kimono) help maintain cleanliness and structure. The obi must be tied in a precise manner, with different knots signifying formality levels.
During the Edo period, complex kitsuke techniques emerged, and specialized kimono dressers became prevalent. In modern times, kimono-wearing schools and workshops help people learn traditional dressing methods.
The kimono remains an enduring symbol of Japanese identity, blending history, craftsmanship, and cultural expression.
The Kimono in Modern Japan
While the kimono was once everyday attire, it is now primarily worn for formal events, festivals, and traditional ceremonies. Common occasions for wearing kimono include:
- Seijinshiki (Coming of Age Day): Young adults celebrate adulthood in elaborate kimono.
- Shichi-Go-San: A festival for young children marking significant ages.
- Weddings: Brides often wear uchikake (embroidered over-kimono) and shiromuku (white wedding kimono).
- Funerals: Mourners wear black kimono with subdued patterns.
- Tea Ceremonies: Participants wear subdued kimono, emphasizing harmony and tradition.
Despite its decline in daily wear, the kimono remains a symbol of Japanese culture and heritage. Fashion designers and kimono enthusiasts have embraced modern adaptations, incorporating contemporary fabrics and patterns.
Kimono for a woman.
Global Influence and Cultural Preservation
The kimono has influenced global fashion, inspiring designers such as Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. Museums worldwide showcase kimono collections, and exhibitions highlight the garment’s historical and artistic significance.
In recent years, Japan has taken steps to preserve kimono culture. The Kyoto government has proposed registering kimono as an intangible cultural heritage with UNESCO. Additionally, kimono rental services have become popular among tourists, allowing visitors to experience traditional dress firsthand.
Frequently Asked Questions – Kimono
What Are the Key Components of a Kimono?
The kimono is typically worn with an obi (sash), zōri sandals, and tabi socks. It is made from a long, narrow bolt of fabric called a tanmono.
What Are the Different Types of Kimono?
Kimono types vary by gender, age, occasion, and season. Common types include the casual yukata, formal furisode, and ceremonial tomesode for married women.
What is Kitsuke?
Kitsuke (着付け) refers to the art and practice of properly wearing a kimono, including folding, wrapping, and tying the obi.
When Did the Kimono Originate?
The kimono’s origins trace back to the Heian period (794–1185), influenced by Chinese fashion before evolving into a distinct Japanese style.
How Did Kimono Styles Change Over Time?
During the Edo period (1603–1867), kimono styles became more elaborate, with longer sleeves and wider obi. In the Meiji period (1868–1912), Western clothing became more common, reducing kimono usage.
When Are Kimono Worn Today?
Kimono are mostly worn at formal events such as weddings, graduations, and tea ceremonies. The yukata, a casual summer kimono, is popular at festivals.
Why Do Geisha and Sumo Wrestlers Wear Kimono?
Geisha and maiko (apprentice geisha) wear elaborate kimono as part of their profession. Rikishi (sumo wrestlers) are required to wear kimono in public as a sign of their status.
A geisha’s formal Kimono
What Are Common Kimono Fabrics?
Kimono are made from silk, cotton, wool, linen, and modern materials like polyester. Silk is preferred for formal kimono, while cotton is used for casual yukata.
What Do Kimono Motifs Represent?
Kimono patterns reflect seasonal themes, auspicious symbols, and cultural elements. For example, cherry blossoms symbolize spring and renewal.
How Are Kimono Constructed?
Kimono are made from a single bolt of fabric (tanmono), cut into rectangular panels and sewn in a way that allows for resizing and repair.
What Led to the Decline of Everyday Kimono Use?
The adoption of Western clothing, modernization, and changing lifestyles led to the decline of kimono as everyday attire, though they remain important for special occasions.
